Jill Will Go...

There is an extraordinary amount of free time before the train arrives for the return to Ollantaytambo. It rains pretty much continuously, so I stay in the hotel and relax. Then it is time for the bus back to Cusco. All the books, all the doctors, all your fellow travelers will tell you that altitude sickness is no joke. Headaches, breathlessness, feeling tired, upset stomach...sure. But here's the thing that nobody tells you about altitude issues....it makes you gassy. Like really gassy. Like, you think you might have an unpleasant "event", bowel-wise, in the near future, but it turns out to be just gas. That kind of gassy. But, my friends, I will tell you the truth about altitude issues - bring the Gas-Ex when you visit Peru. You can thank me later.

It is Machu Picchu day. How does one get to Machu Picchu? It has certainly evolved since Hiram Bingham's day, thank god. In my case it involved a bus, a train, another bus, a hike, and another bus...and lots of rain. Or, as the guide chose to call it "holy water." I would end up in a plastic purple poncho (say that three times fast), feeling very blessed indeed. The train from Ollantaytambo was quite elegant, with comfy seats and big windows everywhere. Coffee and tea are served, along with a snack. The views are lovely, with river and mountains racing by. Aguas Calientes or "Machu Picchu town" welcomes the train travelers with a light sprinkling "holy water." Bags are quickly dropped at the hotel, and then it is time to take the bus up the hill to the site itself. Half of the bus is pre-ponchoed, which makes for a slightly damp, hot house effect with a lot of plastic rustling. Others are winging it, hoping for the best in their fleece or jeans. ...

Up early to catch the flight to Cusco. There are about thirty flights per day between Lima and Cusco - this is an insanely popular route. Peru is a well-oiled tourism machine. Being met with coca tea and told to drink it ASAP is a good sign. At 11,004 feet, Cusco is not messing around. Altitude sickness is real, and it is not your friend, especially if you are a sea-level girl like me. I'm breathless quite quickly, even though I've been dosing myself with medication since before I left the states. I manage to avoid the headaches, which is a plus, but any exertion leaves me winded. I'm not in the best shape of my life, but still! We start our drive through the Sacred Valley on the way to Ollantaytambo. On the way are (literally) breath-taking views. Women and children dot the view stops with hats and goods. I manage to pick up a very useful hat for less than $5.  In Ollantaytambo, lunch is riverside, with just a hint of Inca terraces from the restaurant. The main ...

There is usually that little thrill when the flight attendant announces, "Hello, welcome to Whatever City You Are Traveling To Today, the time is (Does it matter? The jet lag fog has descended and you don't care what time it is), thank you for flying in a metal tube with hundreds of other filthy, smelly humans squished into seats that force you to slouch into the fetal position just to survive." But not this time. I thought there should be, what with this being my first trip to a new continent and all. However, I am ill prepared for this trip - very unlike me. I've read one book about Machu Picchu, then forgot to bring my notes. My pristine, untouched guidebooks are in my luggage. I kind of read the "read this immediately" instructions that came with my vaccinations and altitude medicine. Machu Picchu has been on my list for some time, but I really have zero desire to climb up there to see it. I forgot my hat and umbrella.  I basically have my pass...