This is how I physically got to Myanmar. Seattle, San Francisco, Seoul, Singapore, Yangon. That seems like a lot of work for a country most Americans couldn't find on a map.
So why Myanmar? A lot of people who know I'm coming here don't know where it is. Or why it is interesting. They may recognize the name Aung San Suu Kyi, that she won the Nobel Peace Prize - but not why. People are more likely to recognize the name Burma - but the geography is sketchy.
I wanted to know more about this place that I don't have a good grasp on. I'm fascinated by countries with governments that suppress them or governments that don't participate fully with the rest of the world. How do the people manage? How does a country function and prosper without international involvement - even if that is just investment? What kind of culture, humor, and politics develop in that atmosphere?
Myanmar is a country where multiple cultures and ethnicities coexist, not always peacefully, and foreign countries have ruled or invaded. It is still a country trying to find itself. Right now, they are considering rewriting their constitution to remove the barriers for Aung San Suu Kyi to run for president. That is a really big deal....if it happens. What a time to come see Myanmar!
Up today at 4 a.m (but who knows what time it really is? I'm jet lagged and just tired enough to not care - just tell me when and where to be and I'll show up) for our flight (god, another plane ride) to Bagan. I experienced my first power outage here. at around 4:30 a.m. Everything went dark. Thank goodness I wasn't in the shower. The hotel had a generator which kicked in pretty quickly, but it was obvious from the view outside that not all of Yangon was so lucky.
On the way to the airport, our guide tells us about how to best get along in Myanmar. Smile, nod, be patient. She tells us that shouting, getting angry and loud will produce the opposite of the desired effect. If you lose your temper, you are seen as losing face, and you will not be respected. Politeness, thank yous, and smiles count here.
Finally, a civilized country!
We are stymied by fog. It is very thick and the flights - and the people - are stacking up in Yangon's domestic airport. We finally get on and get into the air, though, and are on our way. I did note that there was no shouting or getting excited. Nothing could be done anyway.
The flight attendant brings newspapers around and I eagerly jump at getting my copy of The New Light of Myanmar "The Most Reliable Newspaper Around You." This is the state newspaper, and while there is no more official censorship in this country, reading the state newspaper is like reading a political pamphlet. It does contain a strange mix of very brief news articles. From International news to the List of World's Most Beautiful Women - this article took up most of the Entertainment page. The most interesting pages, however, were the "Local News."
A boxed text reminded citizens about the National Objectives of 67th Anniversary Union Day 2014:
"For all the national races to cultivate the Union Spirit to perpetuate the Union.
For all the national races to live in unity and harmony.
For all the national races to build up the prevailing national reconciliation.
For all citizens to participate in tasks for tranquility and the rule of law.
For all the national races to join efforts for modern, developed and discipline - flourishing democratic nation."
Not, perhaps, too sinister on the face of it - although some creepy repetitive terminology is in use. And after reading "Finding George Orwell in Burma" by Emma Lakin, I know what this boxed text is saying. Lakin maintains that there are eight main ethnic groups, and within those, some 130 distinctive sub-groups. This makes Myanmar one of the most diverse countries on the planet. And the Burmese military spent decades fighting ethnic nationalist armies, and did so with force and a slogan ("Come back to the truth"). The force came from the "four cuts" policy, enacted in the 1970's. the thought was that the government would cut rebels off from food, funds, recruits and information. Villages were razed, people used as human shields, etc. Most of the ethnic groups brokered ceasefire deals with the government in the 1990's, so there isn't an internal enemy anymore. Except Muslims, which I suspect I hope to learn more about when we get to Mandalay. So is the text in the paper mildly threatening, an upbeat reminder about every citizen doing his or her duty, a politically correct way of including all the varied races in Myanmar under one title? It is an interesting question. I found it mildly threatening and off - a little too doublespeak and "assimilate or else" for my taste. Of course, that could be because I'm looking for that here, and so I see it everywhere.
There was also an "Opinion" piece about Healthcare. "The government in office is increasing its health budget gradually for ensuring health, fitness and longevity of the entire country....We believe that the health sector will continue to develop till it can provide the best health care services at the least cost." A very weird article that said nothing. Standard government talk, or just a reassuring sweet nothing whispered into the reader's ear?
We arrive in Bagan and it is immediate apparent: Bagan is an archeological dream. There are thousands of stupas, temples and pagoda that literally dot the landscape. They are everywhere and they are more impressive because they were all built within two hundred years of each other. But then Bagan declined until it was overrun by the Mongols of Kublai Khan.
When entering a Buddhist place of worship in Myanmar, it is required that shoes and socks come up off. Apparently in other countries, you can keep your socks on, but in Myanmar, it all comes off. I am reminded of a group member in Ethiopia who wanted to argue for her orthopedic shoes and why she should be allowed to wear them. God, no wonder the world hates Americans. If you need your shoes to walk, and the church / mosque / stupa / temple doesn't allow them - wait outside. Luckily there don't seem to be any entitled shoe wearers amongst this group. We all happily troop in on the hot stone, amongst the bird crap and other sweaty, messy feet for a glimpse of Buddha.
Our first temple is called Gubyaukgyi Pahto. It was built in 1113 in an Indian style. Well preserved paintings inside are believed to be the originals and if so, are the oldest in Bagan. No pictures are allowed to preserve what is left. On the top of the ceiling are the Buddha's footprints, painted there so that worshipers are always under the feet of Buddha. This concept is intriguing to me for reasons I don't quite understand. Is it that humbleness is required? Is it comforting? It seems so intimate.
The paintings inside depict the Buddha's life story. Buddhas are seated in each compass point in the temple, and are in the Bhumisparsa sitting position. In this pose, Buddha's right hand is touching the earth. This symbolizes a time when Buddha vowed to not move from under the banyan tree until he obtained enlightenment. He was taunted by Mara (think bad devil-like creature) with a series of temptations. When he touched the earth, he was calling upon the earth to witness his resolve. And as we all know, it worked.
Or second temple is the best preserved and most revered temples in Bagan. Ananda Pahto was built around 1105, but badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake. It was restored and contains four Buddhas that are around 30 feet tall. Two of the four are original and all are made from solid teak. As we entered the temple, we see a long row of booksellers, my people. There are many titles with Aung San Suu Kyi on the cover. This is reassuring to someone who spends her working life promoting the right to read whatever the hell you want to, and encouraging people to read challenging material.
We enter the courtyard of the temple, and there is a family taking snapshots. Their little girl has Thanakha on her face. This is a cosmetic, sunscreen and tradition for everyone here in Myanmar. It is made from the bark of a particular tree. The bark is rubbed over a thick stone, creating a paste that is smoothed onto the face. I asked the family if I could take her picture, and the shot I got was magical. I was back in my element.
Our third temple of the day was the Sulamani Pahto. It is known as Crowning Jewel, and constructed around 1181. As we entered, men holding little red sheet of paper whisper, "Gold leaf? Gold leaf?" Up on the Buddha is a man who has climbed a ladder and is applying this gold leaf straight onto the Buddha. It is an amazing sight to see, most of all because we usually aren't allowed to touch religious relics, again, it is so intimate and almost familial. I love it. As we study the paintings on the walls, our guide tells us that one is of Buddha on the Ganges. I'm instantly transported back to my time on the Ganges river and the sounds of India. Somehow, all my trips overlap, they connect. E.M. Forster would be so pleased. "Only connect."
My hotel room overlooks the Ayeyarwaddy River. I sit and watch the boats with their mosquito-sunding engines make their way up and down the waterway, buzzing along slowly but surely. My room and bathroom are gigantic. Once the rest of the world gets a glimpse of these remarkable places and their view, it will be flooded with tourists. I'm so glad I've come now, amongst the Brits, the Germans and the French (and the occasional American).
We had a surprise tonight. A sunset cruise on the Ayeyarwaddy River. Our very own mosquito-engined boat. We slide down the riverbank, smiling at the little girls trying to sell postcards and bracelets ("See you later! Hello! Maybe later! Obama! Hello!"). We get some beer and wine and set out, watching the various pagodas and stupas glide by as the sun goes down. Great rivers are so important to countries. This giant river flows north to south for some 1200 miles. Agriculture here is centered on this river's floodplains.
After the river, we had dinner at Sunset Gardens - not a retirement community for your golden years, but a riverside outdoor restaurant with a magical view of the Bupaya Stupa, lit up and glowing gold. We are served duck curry, fish curry, eggplant curry, seasoned greens, tomato salad with peanuts, and tempura vegetables with delicious sauces for dipping. The food here is so flavorful without the overpowering spices we Westerners associate with Asia. Enough so that your mouth burns, but not enough to make it numb. Perfection.
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