A huge treat this morning. On our way to a monastery for a view of the Bagan sites, we find ourselves in the middle of a shinpyu ceremony. This is a Buddhist novitiation ceremony, when young boys are committed to their first service as a monk or nun. Every Burmese man is expected to take up mandating life at least twice in his lifetime. Once as a novice, between the ages of 10 and 20, and once when he is a full adult. Tree times is even better, as three is a lucky number.The parade was full of traditional costumes, karaoke style singing via rolling loudspeakers, boys riding horses and dressed in regal finery and girls dancing and throwing flower petals. I always feel lucky to see this kind of thing. It was so festive and upbeat, with dancing characters, pretty girls, and all colors of dress. The girls throwing flower petals had soda cans hidden in their bowls for occasional hydration.
Immediately following the parade, we walked through the Morning Market, still in full swing. Any chance to see fruits and veg on display is always good. This market also had a nice butchery section full of chickens and fish and dogs eagerly waiting for someone to drop something.
Across the street from the market, there was a wedding reception taking place. Our Bagan guide was a friend of the groom's, so we got invited in to see the happy couple and their wedding decorations in the restaurant. They looked very young. Most Burmese get married in their early twenties....after consulting with an astrologer and their family, of course. You don't want to pick an unlucky day (or bride, for that matter). Best to be careful.
We drove a little out of town to see the views from the Oak Kyaung Monastery. It isn't an active monastery any more, but does offer a nice perspective of the surrounding area.
Coming down from the monastery, someone commented on how nice it was that when you come back for your shoes, they are always there. Someone else said that that is because one of the main tenants of Buddhism is to not steal. I said that that was a basic tenant of Judaism and Christianity. He said, yes, but Buddhists actually adhere to their faith whereas others don't. We didn't get into Jews or Muslims or Hindus, because I walked away. Later, that same traveler will ask an awkward question about how Buddhists can serve in the military here. The guide will look at him and say, as if talking to a child, "sometimes people care more about money and power than their faith." That's the problem with idolizing a religion. It is still just practiced by humans. By the way, I've also always had my shoes when I leave a mosque or a Hindu temple.
Our first temple of the day could easily be mistaken for a Hindu shrine. Nanpaya's unique features are the four stone pillars carved with figures of four-faced Brahma. But this Hindu creator deity is thought to be holding offerings of lotus flowers to the Buddha that once sat in the shirne's center. This was thought to be the prison of a Mon King named Manuha from Theton who was held by King Anawratha (he's a very important historical king - he brought Buddhism to Myanmar).
More Manuha legend says that he was allowed to build the Manuha temple next door in 1059, after his release, and that the Buddha's "squeezed" positions reflect how Manuha felt in captivity. And indeed, the giant Buddhas look constrained, too big for their spaces. To get around them, we had to squeeze ourselves around their knees and their flank to progress to the next Buddha.
As I waited to go into the building where the reclining Buddha was, a whole group of locals came out, and when one woman saw me, she handed her camera to someone and came up right beside me and grabbed my hand. She wanted a picture and she was laughing. I love it when this happens. I know that to her, I'm an oddity, tall and very white. But I still love it. I would scrunch down, then stand up tall, asking her which picture she wanted, and the woman just kept laughing harder.
The reclining Buddha was huge. His feet were the size of a man. It is thought that the reclining Buddha here is the only one with a smile on his face.
We continued on to Thatbyinu Pahto. The highest temple in Bagan, it rises up over 200 feet, and was built in the mid-12th century. Only monks are allowed inside the warren of stairs and access to the Buddha - but they helpfully provide a televised picture of what the Buddha happens to be doing at any given moment.
Our next stop is on the the riverside to visit Bupaya Stupa. Said to be the oldest stupa in Bagan (wait for the rebuilt story, though), people say it dates to the third century. Covered in gold, it sits right on the bank of the Ayeyarwaddy, which it tumbled into during the 1975 earthquake. It was completely rebuilt (thus, not able to actually be from the third century, but why get stuck on details?). This was the stupa we could see from our restaurant last night.
Our last stupa for the day was reached by a horse-drawn cart ride. a dusty, bumpy, but great slow stroll through the many little shrines on our way to Shwesandaw Paya for sunset. The stupa on the very top is said to enshrine a Buddha hair relic. To get to the top, there are what could loosely be described as "stairs" to climb. "Climb"being the important word here. Big, narrow steps that you haul yourself nearly straight up. But the payoff is huge. Very reminiscent of Tikal in Guatemala. The sun was setting, the mist started to roll in, and the pagodas, stupas, and shrines started to glow. It was quietly beautiful.
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