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"India. Not for sissies." - Khajuraho and Varanasi, March 19

Khajuraho is famous for magnificent Hindu temples that were built between the tenth and twelfth centuries. The thing that makes them famous is their sensuality and erotic carvings. Although the eroticism is used as a teaching tool - no, not a "how to" guide, more of a "let's try to rise above these base instincts and get to enlightenment" sort of lesson. Plus, one would need years of yoga training to get into some of those positions.

The temples are exquisite. They are carved from a brown colored sandstone with unbelievable detail. The Lakshmana temple is the oldest one in the group and probably the most famous one due to the erotic carvings on it. This is just a small piece of it, though. There are probably thousands of small scenes all over the temple, with horses, elephants, deities, people. It is just stunning.

The temple stands as a lesson on enlightenment and human nature. The erotic carvings serve as examples of what humans do, but above them are what happens when humans go beyond that and achieve what is considered a higher level of consciousness. Even the colors of the carvings differ subtly. The base level is darker, and the stone lightens as you look up.

Some of the carvings also show a sense of humor. There is one of an elephant laughing at a couple, another where a woman is peeking around her hands at a lewd act. It is a playful temple.

Madan talks about the tolerance and patience of the people here. They have managed to fit a lot of religions into one country, and even within those religions, there is a lot of room for variation.

The Rig Veda, one of Hinduism's oldest scriptures says, "Let noble thoughts come to us from all directions." It is accepted that each Hindu will find his or her own way to Brahman, the Supreme Consciousness. The entity encompasses everything, it is the common element in each human being. This is what we recognize with we say "Namaste."

The goal is to reach back to Brahman. Our bodies and minds make us think and act individually, which makes us able to more easily forget that we are all the same.

The walk from the temples to our transportation was prime sexual harassment territory. Of course, Kama Sutra playing cards are for sale, as are erotic books, and some wood toys that bring the carvings on the temple to life - with simulated action. All of this shoved in my face, sometimes with a sense of humor attached to it, and sometimes not. Lots of "did you like the temple," "do you do those things," "where do you do those things," "we should do those things together," comments. Nothing that can't be handled, but still. Some men here might need some enlightening.

There are Jain temples close by, too. When we approached the first temple, we saw a owl sitting on it, with an owlet across the way in a nest. That was a big hit with everyone there.

I also learned the difference between a seated Buddha and the Jain image. A seated Jain will appear naked, and have a symbol of enlightenment on his chest. There was a sign at the temple that said, "Jains are ever absorbed in eternal bliss." What a nice thing to be focused on. Our guide said that this is the third oldest religion, Hinduism being the oldest. It is, as so many things are, an offshoot or alternation of Hinduism.

Seeing the erotic temples and getting harassed reminded me that I haven't seen a single overt sexual advertisement since I arrived here. Nothing. It is refreshing and I like it. Not being bombarded by breasts and lingerie and skinny white teenagers who set the bar for beauty is great. I highly recommend it.

Although I have to balance that with the fact that you don't see a lot of women anywhere. The places I've been have been full of men. Men staring, men peeing, men hawking stuff, men spitting. Men and boys trying to take their picture with me. Men sitting in groups at barber shops, machine shops and food stands. I've seen some women, but the majority of those have been Muslims who are fully covered in a burka-style outfit with just their eyes showing. At night, I see women out shopping, or families out together. But I assume that during the day, the women are tending to things at home.






























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