The train from Agra to Jhansi left at 8:00 a.m. IST. Which can mean Indian Standard Time, which is already a small joke, or Indian Stretchy Time, which takes traffic and other unfortunate events into account.
The train station was not nearly as crowded as I'd anticipated. It was all quite organized and calm. There were wildly disfigured people begging outside it, which is always such a painful thing to see. People who look like their backs were broken and then they were left that way.
The train ride was a pleasant two hours spent chatting with the videographer on the trip, B. It is so nice to meet someone and things are instantly comfortable and you can share a joke or just talk. Especially when traveling traveling alone. I've told her she has my dream job, and she's been gracious enough to give me some shooting tips.
We pulled into Jhansi station, which is celebrating the beautiful white and pink train station's 100th anniversary. There is a slightly different feel here. More people sleeping on the ground in the station, elderly people who are bent nearly double, dogs running around, things like that.
The town of Jhansi is usually used by tourists as a means to an end - Khajuraho. But Jhansi has an interesting past. It was an independent state until it was annexed by the British in 1854. It was then a center of support for the uprising of 1857, led by the last ruler's widow, Rani Lakshmibai, Queen of Jhansi.
A statue outside the train station commemorates her jumping from her fort riding her horse with her son on her back. She survived, the horse did not. She was dressed as a calvary leader and battling the British when she was killed. Hugh Rose of the British Army commented that Rani Lakshmibai was "personable, clever and beautiful" and she was "the most dangerous of all Indian leaders." Pretty badass if you ask me.
On the way to Orchha, our guide pointed out a decorated wedding venue, which led to a discussion about arranged marriages. He said his parents were currently looking for his bride and they were using the A, B, C, D, E, F method.
A is for "age" (she should be one to two years younger than him) and "astrology" (the horoscopes of the couple must be compatible).
B is for "beauty" and "brains." That's pretty self-explanatory.
C is for "caste" and "character" and "cooking". There are four major castes (many other castes within castes exist as well), but in general they are:
Brahmin: spiritual and intellectual services
Kshatriya: defense-related services
Vaishya: trade and commerce-related services
Shudra: manual labor
Then there are "untouchables," those who do the truly dirty work of society. Cleaning toilets, tanning leather, etc. Gandhi felt the prejudice faced by this particular class was an injustice. He named them "Harijans" or "God's People."
We've heard two opposing views: that it is extremely important to marry within the same caste, and that it isn't as important anymore. It seems like this depends on the family and each individual community.
D is for "dutiful" (is she?) and used to include "dowry" The request for a dowry is strictly forbidden now, but "gifting" is extensive.
E is for "educated."
F is for "family background." Thorough background checks (via family and friend connections) is done to make sure the potential wife is from a good family.
Some things I saw during our drive made me smile.
A little boy on a roof who is pulling up his pants is up to no good.
I also saw a boy having a grand time on a homemade swing. He was near a woman selling some fruit on the street under some billboards. There was a rope tied to the bottom of the billboards and in the middle was a flap of cardboard folded over the rope to provide a seat. He looked perfectly content, swinging and watching the world go by.
We arrived shortly in Orchha. Located on the Betwa River, it is a medieval city with stone temples and palaces built by the Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries. We saw the two interconnected palaces; the Jehangir Mahal and the Raj Mahal. There is a running theme here in India and it is called "mahal," which simply means "palace." So far, I've seen the Taj, the Raj, the Jehangir, the Hawa, the Sheesh...mahalo for mahals.
Entering the courtyard of the Raj Mahal (the earlier of the two palaces, it has a simpler design with elegant arches), we were treated to the wildlife. Monkeys - and at least one spotted owl - call this place home.
The more theatrical and elaborate Jehangir Mahal has stunning wood carved doors and elephants decoration, with delicately carved stone.
As the group went up to see the palace from above, I stayed in the main courtyard to do some more shooting, and I ended up talking to a family that was there to see the palaces, too.
It was a father, mother, daughter and then an uncle and his wife. Father spoke a little English and asked me what country. Uncle thought South America, but then I said, "Obama?" and they understood immediately. If President Obama only knew how many doors he's opened for me. It used to be embarrassing to cop to my country electing Bush - twice.
Uncle started to show me his yoga moves, first doing a "Namaste" behind his back, then he saw how delighted I was, so he kept going. He licked his elbow (I know, but try doing it and see how far you get), then he wrapped his legs behind his head and sat there, comfortable as could be. It was pretty spectacular. I tried to talk to the women, and somehow we managed. We established that the daughter was not married, but since her mother was, she colored the part in her hair and also her feet. I finally got the women to all sit together for a picture and it was wonderfully funny because as soon as i brought the camera up, they all stopped smiling instantly.
I've completely gotten over my hesitancy about about talking to strangers in a strange land. This trip, especially since it fell right on the heels of Ethiopia, has only strengthened my resolve go forth and do something, talk to people, see how others live. When something like this afternoon's experience with the family at the palace happens...it is just magical. It reaffirms my faith in the human race, it is the essence of Namaste. Recognizing the soul in the other, despite gigantic differences.
One of my fellow travelers told me that I need a job in travel. She said that people seem drawn to me and feel so comfortable with me. It was such a nice compliment. I told her that they must know how eager I am to talk to them and that a smile and a wave go a long way.
It isn't perfect here, of course. There is trash everywhere, people are pooping and peeing in the gutter, there are flies and horribly disabled people, and obviously, from a female perspective, things are not the best for some women here. But these moments make me remember that we are just trying to get along in this world and make the most of it while we can.
The train station was not nearly as crowded as I'd anticipated. It was all quite organized and calm. There were wildly disfigured people begging outside it, which is always such a painful thing to see. People who look like their backs were broken and then they were left that way.
The train ride was a pleasant two hours spent chatting with the videographer on the trip, B. It is so nice to meet someone and things are instantly comfortable and you can share a joke or just talk. Especially when traveling traveling alone. I've told her she has my dream job, and she's been gracious enough to give me some shooting tips.
We pulled into Jhansi station, which is celebrating the beautiful white and pink train station's 100th anniversary. There is a slightly different feel here. More people sleeping on the ground in the station, elderly people who are bent nearly double, dogs running around, things like that.
The town of Jhansi is usually used by tourists as a means to an end - Khajuraho. But Jhansi has an interesting past. It was an independent state until it was annexed by the British in 1854. It was then a center of support for the uprising of 1857, led by the last ruler's widow, Rani Lakshmibai, Queen of Jhansi.
A statue outside the train station commemorates her jumping from her fort riding her horse with her son on her back. She survived, the horse did not. She was dressed as a calvary leader and battling the British when she was killed. Hugh Rose of the British Army commented that Rani Lakshmibai was "personable, clever and beautiful" and she was "the most dangerous of all Indian leaders." Pretty badass if you ask me.
On the way to Orchha, our guide pointed out a decorated wedding venue, which led to a discussion about arranged marriages. He said his parents were currently looking for his bride and they were using the A, B, C, D, E, F method.
A is for "age" (she should be one to two years younger than him) and "astrology" (the horoscopes of the couple must be compatible).
B is for "beauty" and "brains." That's pretty self-explanatory.
C is for "caste" and "character" and "cooking". There are four major castes (many other castes within castes exist as well), but in general they are:
Brahmin: spiritual and intellectual services
Kshatriya: defense-related services
Vaishya: trade and commerce-related services
Shudra: manual labor
Then there are "untouchables," those who do the truly dirty work of society. Cleaning toilets, tanning leather, etc. Gandhi felt the prejudice faced by this particular class was an injustice. He named them "Harijans" or "God's People."
We've heard two opposing views: that it is extremely important to marry within the same caste, and that it isn't as important anymore. It seems like this depends on the family and each individual community.
D is for "dutiful" (is she?) and used to include "dowry" The request for a dowry is strictly forbidden now, but "gifting" is extensive.
E is for "educated."
F is for "family background." Thorough background checks (via family and friend connections) is done to make sure the potential wife is from a good family.
Some things I saw during our drive made me smile.
A little boy on a roof who is pulling up his pants is up to no good.
I also saw a boy having a grand time on a homemade swing. He was near a woman selling some fruit on the street under some billboards. There was a rope tied to the bottom of the billboards and in the middle was a flap of cardboard folded over the rope to provide a seat. He looked perfectly content, swinging and watching the world go by.
We arrived shortly in Orchha. Located on the Betwa River, it is a medieval city with stone temples and palaces built by the Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries. We saw the two interconnected palaces; the Jehangir Mahal and the Raj Mahal. There is a running theme here in India and it is called "mahal," which simply means "palace." So far, I've seen the Taj, the Raj, the Jehangir, the Hawa, the Sheesh...mahalo for mahals.
Entering the courtyard of the Raj Mahal (the earlier of the two palaces, it has a simpler design with elegant arches), we were treated to the wildlife. Monkeys - and at least one spotted owl - call this place home.
The more theatrical and elaborate Jehangir Mahal has stunning wood carved doors and elephants decoration, with delicately carved stone.
As the group went up to see the palace from above, I stayed in the main courtyard to do some more shooting, and I ended up talking to a family that was there to see the palaces, too.
It was a father, mother, daughter and then an uncle and his wife. Father spoke a little English and asked me what country. Uncle thought South America, but then I said, "Obama?" and they understood immediately. If President Obama only knew how many doors he's opened for me. It used to be embarrassing to cop to my country electing Bush - twice.
Uncle started to show me his yoga moves, first doing a "Namaste" behind his back, then he saw how delighted I was, so he kept going. He licked his elbow (I know, but try doing it and see how far you get), then he wrapped his legs behind his head and sat there, comfortable as could be. It was pretty spectacular. I tried to talk to the women, and somehow we managed. We established that the daughter was not married, but since her mother was, she colored the part in her hair and also her feet. I finally got the women to all sit together for a picture and it was wonderfully funny because as soon as i brought the camera up, they all stopped smiling instantly.
I've completely gotten over my hesitancy about about talking to strangers in a strange land. This trip, especially since it fell right on the heels of Ethiopia, has only strengthened my resolve go forth and do something, talk to people, see how others live. When something like this afternoon's experience with the family at the palace happens...it is just magical. It reaffirms my faith in the human race, it is the essence of Namaste. Recognizing the soul in the other, despite gigantic differences.
One of my fellow travelers told me that I need a job in travel. She said that people seem drawn to me and feel so comfortable with me. It was such a nice compliment. I told her that they must know how eager I am to talk to them and that a smile and a wave go a long way.
It isn't perfect here, of course. There is trash everywhere, people are pooping and peeing in the gutter, there are flies and horribly disabled people, and obviously, from a female perspective, things are not the best for some women here. But these moments make me remember that we are just trying to get along in this world and make the most of it while we can.
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