Update: Due to the medical emergency that caused two people to leave our group, there was room in the southern portion of this tour. So I've changed my flights and decided to stay on an extra week. I couldn't miss this opportunity. When will I come back here? So I'm heading to Southern Ethiopia with the rest of the group. Everyone has been very supportive and glad that I'm continuing on with them...now I just need to work on finding some supplies. I packed light, rationing my malaria pills, sunscreen, contact lenses and underwear for exactly the right amount of days. Time to scramble once I get back to Addis.
After breakfast, we started our Church marathon...and it was all about endurance.
We started with Bet Debre Sina and Bet Golgotha. They are considered "twin" churches. They share an entrance, and together are something called a semi-monolith. This is when a church is still attached to a hill or another rock structure. Bet Debre Sina had columns that are considered cross columns, they aren't round, but instead form the shape of a cross. Very symbolic.
Bet Golgotha is a church that only men can enter. Again.
One of the annoying people on this trip, a man, looked at me and said, "Discrimination. Well, I guess you're used to it." I replied that no, I wasn't used to it. I didn't think anyone ever gets used to it. Idiot. Why don't I just watch your shoes while you go in? I'll watch them fly into one of these mini ravines is what I'll do.
All right, a side rant is coming on: the thing about going to another culture's holy place is that you are subject to their rules. Things like having to cover your hair, taking off your hat if you are a man, covering your bare shoulders, not wearing shorts, removing your shoes...these are all things that should be expected and accepted by travelers. It isn't like some priest in Ethiopia is going to say, upon my protestations, "Oh my gosh, Jillian from Seattle, you are completely right, women should be able to enter through the same door as the men, what have we been thinking for the past 900 years? Wow. Thanks for showing us the error of our ways."
This particular group is the most well traveled group of people I've ever met. They willingly take off their shoes - except for one. She protests. It is too painful, why can't she wear booties over her shoes, they let her do that in Turkey, her feet hurt, she can't walk, why does she have to do it? At. Every. Church. Do you know how many churches we've seen?! I understand that she has some disorder that makes walking without shoes painful but the answer is: you don't go in. Not, you whine and whine and annoy until someone gives in. And nobody here was giving in. I was happy about that, but it was embarrassing to even be near her when this started. Then the aforementioned annoying man started chiming in, "Oh god, here we go again with the shoe thing." Are you kidding me? You are entering 900 year old churches in Ethiopia. Count your blessings and move on. And leave your shoes at the door.
All right, rant done.
Bet Golgotha does have a door, and they can't ban women's eyes, so I did get a peak at one of the twelve life sized statue reliefs of the apostles carved into the walls. This is also where King Lalibela is supposed to be entombed - under the floor. The little chapel in this church is considered the holiest place in Lalibela.
The best and worst thing about this place is that it isn't a cleanly defined space. There are multiple narrow passageways, tiny doorways, and steps everywhere. Paths leading to various churches, which have multiple exits. A lot of it is connected, with some churches standing apart.
There are zero safety measures, and the potential for a serious fall is a serious reality. It is what could be called a challenging walking environment. Three in our group had to hire helpers to help with balance and guidance. These are generally teenage boys and girls who assist with an arm, carry a bag, and generally just stick to their charges like glue. Because it is Lalibela at the busiest season, the rates for these service skyrockets to $10 per day. Or 200 birr.
I know.
We walked past what used to be the traditional houses in Lalibela. They are a style found only here. Two stories, circular stone homes, built from the rocks that were excavated when the churches were being carved. People lived in these until everyone realized that it was terrible for tourists to be traipsing through the little village, and the people wanted more modern abodes. So they relocated, and now they roofs just get changed out every four or five years to keep the rain out.
Then we went to Saint George. This was the whole reason I had come to Ethiopia. To see this monolithic church. This is an isolated monolith, which was carved below ground level in a sunken courtyard. It is the only church that isn't covered by some sort of shelter, and for a very good reason. The striking thing about this church is that is is carved in the shape of a symmetrical cross, and it is decorated on the top with multiple crosses. It is a trek down into courtyard, where the walls and the church are just overwhelming. It was truly something to see.
In the courtyard, there are small tombs of pilgrims who were allowed to be buried here...although "entombed" in probably a better description since we could still see their shriveled feet.
It was such a good, satisfying experience to finally see this church in person. I feel like I achieved something for myself, and as one fellow traveler said, "That was an expected 'wow' moment, and it didn't disappoint." I'm glad I came here when I did and I'm grateful that I'm able bodied enough to do it.
One the way back for lunch, we again encountered the processional. This time it was much more festive, less of a crush of people, and I was able to get more pictures and see more of the action. The priests were walking along, pausing to do the sway, sing, bow and spin. The colors and the people were stunning. They carry these amazing kaleidoscope colored umbrellas that are embroidered with elaborate designs. Everyone was dressed in their Timkat best. Again, a wonderful part of the day.
After breakfast, we started our Church marathon...and it was all about endurance.
We started with Bet Debre Sina and Bet Golgotha. They are considered "twin" churches. They share an entrance, and together are something called a semi-monolith. This is when a church is still attached to a hill or another rock structure. Bet Debre Sina had columns that are considered cross columns, they aren't round, but instead form the shape of a cross. Very symbolic.
Bet Golgotha is a church that only men can enter. Again.
One of the annoying people on this trip, a man, looked at me and said, "Discrimination. Well, I guess you're used to it." I replied that no, I wasn't used to it. I didn't think anyone ever gets used to it. Idiot. Why don't I just watch your shoes while you go in? I'll watch them fly into one of these mini ravines is what I'll do.
All right, a side rant is coming on: the thing about going to another culture's holy place is that you are subject to their rules. Things like having to cover your hair, taking off your hat if you are a man, covering your bare shoulders, not wearing shorts, removing your shoes...these are all things that should be expected and accepted by travelers. It isn't like some priest in Ethiopia is going to say, upon my protestations, "Oh my gosh, Jillian from Seattle, you are completely right, women should be able to enter through the same door as the men, what have we been thinking for the past 900 years? Wow. Thanks for showing us the error of our ways."
This particular group is the most well traveled group of people I've ever met. They willingly take off their shoes - except for one. She protests. It is too painful, why can't she wear booties over her shoes, they let her do that in Turkey, her feet hurt, she can't walk, why does she have to do it? At. Every. Church. Do you know how many churches we've seen?! I understand that she has some disorder that makes walking without shoes painful but the answer is: you don't go in. Not, you whine and whine and annoy until someone gives in. And nobody here was giving in. I was happy about that, but it was embarrassing to even be near her when this started. Then the aforementioned annoying man started chiming in, "Oh god, here we go again with the shoe thing." Are you kidding me? You are entering 900 year old churches in Ethiopia. Count your blessings and move on. And leave your shoes at the door.
All right, rant done.
Bet Golgotha does have a door, and they can't ban women's eyes, so I did get a peak at one of the twelve life sized statue reliefs of the apostles carved into the walls. This is also where King Lalibela is supposed to be entombed - under the floor. The little chapel in this church is considered the holiest place in Lalibela.
The best and worst thing about this place is that it isn't a cleanly defined space. There are multiple narrow passageways, tiny doorways, and steps everywhere. Paths leading to various churches, which have multiple exits. A lot of it is connected, with some churches standing apart.
There are zero safety measures, and the potential for a serious fall is a serious reality. It is what could be called a challenging walking environment. Three in our group had to hire helpers to help with balance and guidance. These are generally teenage boys and girls who assist with an arm, carry a bag, and generally just stick to their charges like glue. Because it is Lalibela at the busiest season, the rates for these service skyrockets to $10 per day. Or 200 birr.
I know.
We walked past what used to be the traditional houses in Lalibela. They are a style found only here. Two stories, circular stone homes, built from the rocks that were excavated when the churches were being carved. People lived in these until everyone realized that it was terrible for tourists to be traipsing through the little village, and the people wanted more modern abodes. So they relocated, and now they roofs just get changed out every four or five years to keep the rain out.
Then we went to Saint George. This was the whole reason I had come to Ethiopia. To see this monolithic church. This is an isolated monolith, which was carved below ground level in a sunken courtyard. It is the only church that isn't covered by some sort of shelter, and for a very good reason. The striking thing about this church is that is is carved in the shape of a symmetrical cross, and it is decorated on the top with multiple crosses. It is a trek down into courtyard, where the walls and the church are just overwhelming. It was truly something to see.
In the courtyard, there are small tombs of pilgrims who were allowed to be buried here...although "entombed" in probably a better description since we could still see their shriveled feet.
It was such a good, satisfying experience to finally see this church in person. I feel like I achieved something for myself, and as one fellow traveler said, "That was an expected 'wow' moment, and it didn't disappoint." I'm glad I came here when I did and I'm grateful that I'm able bodied enough to do it.
One the way back for lunch, we again encountered the processional. This time it was much more festive, less of a crush of people, and I was able to get more pictures and see more of the action. The priests were walking along, pausing to do the sway, sing, bow and spin. The colors and the people were stunning. They carry these amazing kaleidoscope colored umbrellas that are embroidered with elaborate designs. Everyone was dressed in their Timkat best. Again, a wonderful part of the day.
HERE IS WHERE "HAPPY FOR YOU" OFFICIALLY SWITCHED COMPLETELY OVER TO "JEALOUS OF YOU"
ReplyDelete