After lunch back at the the hotel, it was a quick drive to the Fasil Ghebbi (The Royal Enclosure) at the center of town. A World Heritage Site, it is a very surprising place. In the middle of Ethiopia sits this collection of palaces that would be at home in Southern Spain, or most parts of Europe. It is most unusual.
The complex itself has six castles, a banquet hall, stables, an archive building, saunas and baths. The Italians occupied this place, so it was "gently" bombed by the British during WWII.
The biggest and most impressive castle was built around 1640 by Emperor Fasilidas. It has influences from the Portuguese, Axumite (another area or Ethiopia), and some Indian. Inside on the walls there is even a Star of David. The guide said it was the Star of David, the guide book says that it a symbol similar to the Star of David, which became a symbol of the Solomonic dynasty here in the 13th Century. Whatever the case, there were other symbols on the wall, indicating that there were relationships built probably on trade, with many neighboring societies.
The archways inside the castle reminded me of La Mezquita in Codroba. I call them candy cane arches. They had a definite Moorish feel to them, and it was surprising to see them here.
The complex is huge, with plenty of places to walk, and Ethiopians were making use of the Sunday, the beautiful weather, and the wedding season to celebrate. There were huge groups of wedding parties, chanting, singing, playing instruments, and dancing. It was so beautiful and joyous and festive. Everyone thought we were hilarious, taking pictures of them just doing their thing.
We were even asked to dance. Ethiopians have a very active shoulder rotation dance that I find impossible to imitate. I need more practice. It is very fast, up and down, but then the back gets going to, then the neck - it is like a bird mating dance, really. It is something to see. They thought the foreigners trying to do it was pretty funny, but when I started to shake what my momma and too much pizza gave me, I got a cheer. The very white skin and the height, and the blue eyes are kind of a novelty.
When we were supposed to meet up with our group, some people were running behind, so I went out into the street alone to get some pictures. I was surrounded by children selling gum, and got stares as I took pictures of busses and another church entrance and the wedding bells on top of the taxis and vans. I found out later that those mounds were full of chicken bread, a special celebratory bread that is served to the wedding guests.
As I was out shooting, I got invited to a party and many of the women were giggling at me taking pictures of a place that they see everyday, but that I find exotic. What a wonderful, colorful place!
Our last stop of the day was Fasilida's Pool. Our driver mimed swimming when we asked him where we were headed. This place is a sunken pool that is overlooked by a small building, possibly Fasilida's second residence. The pool is dry for most of the year, but was being filled for Timkat - which is coming soon. In Gonder, this is where is where the Timkat action is...thousands of white-robed people will surround the pool, wait for the the priests to bless the water, then most will jump into the water, the others will wait to be splashed by their compatriots.
A short walk from the pool is a small pavilion where local legend says an Emperor's beloved horse is buried.
After a little break at the hotel, we went to dinner at The Four Sisters Restaurant. It was traditional Ethiopian, mixed with some more Western-friendly fare. I'm having a love affair with lentils. Mild, medium, spicy, bring on the lentil sauce! The meat is a little tough here, and when you see all the skinny cows you know why, but the lentils are just delicious. There was more minstrel playing, more dancing, and even one of our drivers joined in. I am going to have to learn how to do this dance by the time I return to Ethiopia.
Most of the group is heading south as well, but I leave after the north. Big mistake. The south is where the tribes are, and I think I'm going to miss some wonderful things. Something to save up for.
The complex itself has six castles, a banquet hall, stables, an archive building, saunas and baths. The Italians occupied this place, so it was "gently" bombed by the British during WWII.
The biggest and most impressive castle was built around 1640 by Emperor Fasilidas. It has influences from the Portuguese, Axumite (another area or Ethiopia), and some Indian. Inside on the walls there is even a Star of David. The guide said it was the Star of David, the guide book says that it a symbol similar to the Star of David, which became a symbol of the Solomonic dynasty here in the 13th Century. Whatever the case, there were other symbols on the wall, indicating that there were relationships built probably on trade, with many neighboring societies.
The archways inside the castle reminded me of La Mezquita in Codroba. I call them candy cane arches. They had a definite Moorish feel to them, and it was surprising to see them here.
The complex is huge, with plenty of places to walk, and Ethiopians were making use of the Sunday, the beautiful weather, and the wedding season to celebrate. There were huge groups of wedding parties, chanting, singing, playing instruments, and dancing. It was so beautiful and joyous and festive. Everyone thought we were hilarious, taking pictures of them just doing their thing.
We were even asked to dance. Ethiopians have a very active shoulder rotation dance that I find impossible to imitate. I need more practice. It is very fast, up and down, but then the back gets going to, then the neck - it is like a bird mating dance, really. It is something to see. They thought the foreigners trying to do it was pretty funny, but when I started to shake what my momma and too much pizza gave me, I got a cheer. The very white skin and the height, and the blue eyes are kind of a novelty.
When we were supposed to meet up with our group, some people were running behind, so I went out into the street alone to get some pictures. I was surrounded by children selling gum, and got stares as I took pictures of busses and another church entrance and the wedding bells on top of the taxis and vans. I found out later that those mounds were full of chicken bread, a special celebratory bread that is served to the wedding guests.
As I was out shooting, I got invited to a party and many of the women were giggling at me taking pictures of a place that they see everyday, but that I find exotic. What a wonderful, colorful place!
Our last stop of the day was Fasilida's Pool. Our driver mimed swimming when we asked him where we were headed. This place is a sunken pool that is overlooked by a small building, possibly Fasilida's second residence. The pool is dry for most of the year, but was being filled for Timkat - which is coming soon. In Gonder, this is where is where the Timkat action is...thousands of white-robed people will surround the pool, wait for the the priests to bless the water, then most will jump into the water, the others will wait to be splashed by their compatriots.
A short walk from the pool is a small pavilion where local legend says an Emperor's beloved horse is buried.
After a little break at the hotel, we went to dinner at The Four Sisters Restaurant. It was traditional Ethiopian, mixed with some more Western-friendly fare. I'm having a love affair with lentils. Mild, medium, spicy, bring on the lentil sauce! The meat is a little tough here, and when you see all the skinny cows you know why, but the lentils are just delicious. There was more minstrel playing, more dancing, and even one of our drivers joined in. I am going to have to learn how to do this dance by the time I return to Ethiopia.
Most of the group is heading south as well, but I leave after the north. Big mistake. The south is where the tribes are, and I think I'm going to miss some wonderful things. Something to save up for.
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